Oldskoolyzf

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:48 pm 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Yeah I was really really happy when Mike found that seal! I really can't thank him enough for taking the time to find it.

Yeah, I like updating this project too, sometimes I forget thats half the fun!

I've read about other 661's in the states before, but they've been done using different parts....some with high buck aftermarket parts, some with FZR cases.....lots of ways to build them thats for sure!

I'll just be interested to see how long it holds together honestly....I'm not planning to race it or anything so I expect it will be ok for a while...but I do like to twist the throttle sometimes, lol. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:12 pm 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Small update to prove I did some work on the YZF this weekend. :-P Just the engine build today....

I spent some time cleaning the pistons and cylinders. I had let them soak in seafoam for a few weeks which seemed to soften up the carbon. I could wipe off a lot, but I had to use a brass wire brush to clean up the rest. It took a little while but worked pretty well. Also I found they fit very nicely in these plastic containers. :)

Image

I also fit the adjustable cam sprockets on the cams. I need them because adding the base plate spacer changes the cam timing. When I ordered them they were listed as fitting FZR's...I cross-referenced the factory numbers and they seemed to be the same...and sure enough they fit the YZF cams just fine. For those interested, you can find them here, http://www.faliconcranks.com/sprocket_price.html and here's a picture of them side by side, adjustable left, stock right

Image

And for those that are wondering the crank seal I'm using is a Chicago Rawhide #10281 26x40x8 HMSA7 R , but at this point, use it at your own risk...it fit, but I have yet to know if it will leak when running.

Also I've got a burette on the way so I can cc the pistons and combustion chamber to figure out the exact compression ratio I'll be running. I hope to have that done next weekend so I can finish assembling the pistons/cylinders/head. For those that want to read up, here's an article on CCing heads, http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html but that article is just for the head, I'm also going to CC the pistons because I've never read how big they are.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:03 am 
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Bill picks on me, i kiss his *cus-word*. the big wheels keep on turning
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did the seafoam evaporate on you? seal containers?

i need to clean my pistons too, looks for more info on how you did it.

_________________
"I no what I'm doing is rite, I just did it wrong."

A monkey can memorize facts, but ask one to rebuild a set of forks.....
-Bpro

I've been in the basement a few times

Image


2nd Gear Rebuild Vids Here: http://www.youtube.com/user/vashtsdayto ... sults_main

Fork Rebuild: https://youtu.be/7sgxwyaRDO8


I have carb parts viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3408


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:38 pm 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Lol....as I was cleaning them I was thinking...."I wonder if vash has cleaned his pistons yet...wonder what he did". No the seafoam did not evaporate, I left them uncovered for almost a month....but I wish I'd have covered them to keep debris out, lol. I know you like details, so I'm gonna be heavy on the details (also work is slow today, lol), so sorry if its too wordy. :)

I have previously used a bead blaster with crushed walnut shells for my extreamly dirty/sooty diesel pistons with great results. I had several stuck rings on those pistons and carbon/soot in all the ring lands that wouldn't scrub out....the walnut shells took that out really well. However it is kinda messy and I wasn't sure it would work well with the small pistons, so I wanted to try something different for the YZF pistons because they weren't near as dirty.

This isn't exactly what I did, but here's what I'd do if I was doing them again. Here's the bowls I used, its the "XS bowl" size with 6 in a package. http://www.ziploc.com/Products/Pages/Co ... pSeal.aspx
Next I'd remove the rings making note of the orientiation. For my 97+ engine the upper ring has a bevel on the inside that faces up. The next lower ring didn't have anything I noticed (except that one had a "T" etched in it that faces up). The lower oil ring is a 3 piece, the upper and lower need to be removed first and its easy to tell orientation because you can see where the inner "spring ring" contacted. Finally remove the spring ring....I'm not sure that the orientation of it matters too much, but I put it back the way it came out.

After the rings are off I'd set the rings and pistons in the containers upsidown and pore in enough seafoam to cover the piston face and all the ring lands. I would check on them every few days and wipe them down to get some carbon off. I just let mine soak and a lot of it just fell off, so I think a soak/wipe/soak/wipe every few days would be better if you've got a thick layer of carbon.

The carbon in the valve releifs and on the sides was a little more stubborn so I used a brass wire brush wheel in a hand drill at low speed (a rotary tool is WAY too fast) to get the rest off. I used the trigger lock on the drill so I wouldn't have to hold it and set it on my lap or between my legs while holding the piston. Don't need to use too much force, just let the wheel do the work. I used brass so I wouldn't mar the aluminum. Make sure you have a true brass wire wheel...a lot are just brass coated (i.e. they will still mar the aluminum) You can tell by seeing if the wires are magnetic or not. I got mine from Harbor Freight, I couldn't find it listed online, but its a set of 5 or 6 of different shapes and sizes for $5-7, I recommend buying two sets as you can use them for cleaning the cases/head/cylinders/any aluminum gasket surface. Also because they are brass, you use them up much faster then steel wire wheels. So also wear safety glasses to keep little piece of brass wire out of your eyes.

The ring lands are really tiny so I'd suggest getting some string (maybe kite string?) and soaking it in carb cleaner and then "flossing" the ring land to get the gunk out. I used the edge of a paper towel which worked ok, but wan't perfect. For the rings I just wiped them down, both faces and the ID and OD.

So thats that. It didn't take all that long, maybe 30-45 min per piston, but if someone knows a better way I'd like to hear it. Also I'm sure an ultrasonic cleaner would work REALLY well, but I havn't bought one of those....yet...its on the wish list! :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:03 pm 
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Bill picks on me, i kiss his *cus-word*. the big wheels keep on turning
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i appreciate all you wrote there and will proabably do most of that but i think you went a little overboard, considering what this engine is and is not. well in your situation maybe not. in mine i could concivably not clean anything and put it back together and still have years of service on the machine as it would be how it was before removal. so i am shooting for cleaner but not spotless with mine.

_________________
"I no what I'm doing is rite, I just did it wrong."

A monkey can memorize facts, but ask one to rebuild a set of forks.....
-Bpro

I've been in the basement a few times

Image


2nd Gear Rebuild Vids Here: http://www.youtube.com/user/vashtsdayto ... sults_main

Fork Rebuild: https://youtu.be/7sgxwyaRDO8


I have carb parts viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3408


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:12 pm 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Yeah I know what you are saying and agree with you. I'll be the first to admit tend to go overboard when it comes to engine internals, but I figure I won't be back in there for years (if ever) so I might as well use a little extra elbow grease now and get things looking spotless so I don't contaminate my engine rebuild at all. But yeah, the thought had crossed my mind more then once to just slap it back together with minimal cleaning. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 7:27 pm 
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Bill picks on me, i kiss his *cus-word*. the big wheels keep on turning
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Location: fargo ND
diztroy wrote:
Yeah I know what you are saying and agree with you. I'll be the first to admit tend to go overboard when it comes to engine internals, but I figure I won't be back in there for years (if ever) so I might as well use a little extra elbow grease now and get things looking spotless so I don't contaminate my engine rebuild at all. But yeah, the thought had crossed my mind more then once to just slap it back together with minimal cleaning. :D



and i need to clean up the combustion chamber too. maybe seafoam soaked rag and let that sit then brass brush?


i wont argue that cleaner isnt better, but i think it is imprortant to note this isnt a GP bike for F1 car. and it wont take much running time before they are dirty again is all i am saying. just as long as it runs as good as it did before i took it apart i am fine.

_________________
"I no what I'm doing is rite, I just did it wrong."

A monkey can memorize facts, but ask one to rebuild a set of forks.....
-Bpro

I've been in the basement a few times

Image


2nd Gear Rebuild Vids Here: http://www.youtube.com/user/vashtsdayto ... sults_main

Fork Rebuild: https://youtu.be/7sgxwyaRDO8


I have carb parts viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3408


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 4:37 pm 
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Elementary OldSkooler
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:40 am
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Location: New Orleans LA
Diz, you are using the FZR flywheel with the crank you installed yes?

Do you think it would be possible to have the FZR crank retapered for the YZF flywheel / rotor and use the YZF ignition unit with the stock TPS?

You are using a FZR crank / rods with YZF pistons?


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:08 pm 
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Bill picks on me, i kiss his *cus-word*. the big wheels keep on turning
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Location: fargo ND
hey diz, here are my pistons cleaned up. ignor the shadows and stuff just look at the bottom right one, they all look like that. i think they came out pretty clean. good enough for me at least.

Image

_________________
"I no what I'm doing is rite, I just did it wrong."

A monkey can memorize facts, but ask one to rebuild a set of forks.....
-Bpro

I've been in the basement a few times

Image


2nd Gear Rebuild Vids Here: http://www.youtube.com/user/vashtsdayto ... sults_main

Fork Rebuild: https://youtu.be/7sgxwyaRDO8


I have carb parts viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3408


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:33 am 
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Elementary OldSkooler
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Location: New Orleans LA
I emailed Fallicon to ask them if they have any 660 options that they may have done in years past,

Does anyone know the answer to this statement / question

We have never attempted to convert a FZR to a YZF taper, but it might be possible. We have done similar modifications to other makes and models.

Would the FZR crank just need to be reground for the different taper, or will we have to weld it up first? That will determine the price. If we have to add material by welding onto the crank there is some concern that the crank may warp from the heat.


Can the FZR crank be retapered to fit the YZF flywheel and rotor? Or is it not possible?


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:23 am 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Hey guys, sorry I missed all of your posts! I've been busy with travel and other things that I haven't ridden/wrenched/or even touched anything YZF recently. :(

Vash, I started soaking my chambers in seafoam too, but thats as far as I got before I got busy (and you've got your motor back together my now anyways, I'm Jealous!!!) Your pistons look good BTW, Mine were really sooty and it looks like you got all that off pretty well :D

Dadrider, Yes, I'm using the FZR crank, FZR rotor, YZF pistons, and YZF rods together. The FZR crank taper is smaller, so you'd need to have it welded up to fit the YZF rotor. Here are a few pictures of the rotors I took a while ago if it helps.

http://www.oldskoolyzf.com/gallery2/mai ... itemId=875

http://www.oldskoolyzf.com/gallery2/mai ... itemId=878

To be honest I think it would be easier/cheaper to have a custom ICU made that has a TPS input and will work with the FZR crank/rotor, vs. having a custom crank made....read more here, http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38591

and here,

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1501&start=0


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:23 am 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:20 pm
Posts: 1053
Hey guys, sorry I missed all of your posts! I've been busy with travel and other things that I haven't ridden/wrenched/or even touched anything YZF recently. :(

Vash, I started soaking my chambers in seafoam too, but thats as far as I got before I got busy (and you've got your motor back together my now anyways, I'm Jealous!!!) Your pistons look good BTW, Mine were really sooty and it looks like you got all that off pretty well :D

Dadrider, Yes, I'm using the FZR crank, FZR rotor, YZF pistons, and YZF rods together. The FZR crank taper is smaller, so you'd need to have it welded up to fit the YZF rotor. Here are a few pictures of the rotors I took a while ago if it helps.

http://www.oldskoolyzf.com/gallery2/mai ... itemId=875

http://www.oldskoolyzf.com/gallery2/mai ... itemId=878

To be honest I think it would be easier/cheaper to have a custom ICU made that has a TPS input and will work with the FZR crank/rotor, vs. having a custom crank made....read more here, http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38591

and here,

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1501&start=0


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:52 am 
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Bill picks on me, i kiss his *cus-word*. the big wheels keep on turning
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:04 pm
Posts: 2991
Location: fargo ND
you sir, need to travel less, and hold my hand more.

_________________
"I no what I'm doing is rite, I just did it wrong."

A monkey can memorize facts, but ask one to rebuild a set of forks.....
-Bpro

I've been in the basement a few times

Image


2nd Gear Rebuild Vids Here: http://www.youtube.com/user/vashtsdayto ... sults_main

Fork Rebuild: https://youtu.be/7sgxwyaRDO8


I have carb parts viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3408


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 7:28 pm 
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where's that ban button...... :lol: :lol: :roll:
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:20 pm
Posts: 1053
nah, you do fine on your own!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:36 pm 
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Elementary OldSkooler
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Location: New Orleans LA
I'm looking at the ignitech route with the 2002 TPS and FZR rotor. I am not going to try to hybrid-ize the YZF rotor to a FZR crank in any way shape or form..

You decided to go with the 3mm Cometic spacer at the bottom versus using the FZS600 rods from the UK?

Are you also going to have to source a FZR stator cover with it's different pickup coil mount?

Dad


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